14.4.08

Round Japan in 10 Days

Well I am back from a whirlwind tour of Japan with family. My apartment and I have just about recovered from the trip, and I'm already anticipating the next trip. After hosting 3 others in my apartment, I feel a need to say a big THANK YOU to anyone who has ever invited me to their own home. It was wonderful to be able to share my life and my second home with people I love, but it was also exhausting.

The first half of the trip was spent in Tanabe. Tanabe may not be as dramatic or breathtaking as the other places we went, but I think everyone relaxed a lot more and had a lot of fun there. At the time, I couldn't wait to head off for our first destination. (I seemed to have it in my head that we were somehow going to be more organized when people had their own rooms to dump all their stuff, rather than all over my apartment.) Well the first train ride dispelled that idea. To everyone credit, they downsized their bags to what would be considered almost nothing by most people's standards, but the reality was that it was still too much. Unless you are planning on shelling out a lot of money, or joining a hosted tour, Japan is just not the place to bring much luggage. It is a mystery how Japanese people tote around tiny little travel bags and yet still look put together the next day, but somehow they do. By contrast the westerners you see here are exhausted, schlepping around bags that are far too big to carry up and down flights or stairs, and impossible to fit on the trains. For all of this stuff, we still look nothing short of scrubby next to the the highly primped Japanese. The truth is, (at least Americans) are so used to being able to drive their stuff around that it doesn't even occur to them that they might actually have to carry their luggage around outside of the air port. Nothing, not even repeated warnings, can prepare the traveler for the endless crowded stations, trains, and stairwells that they will face in Japan. At times I felt like a ring leader just trying to get everyone and their luggage through the stations. "We're getting off at the next stop." "Yes you will need your passes again." "Everybody go to the window, NOT the machine gates!" I can not count how many times I must have said all these things. It was inevitable to course, but none the less exhausting.

In addition to the trains, the amount of walking necessary to get around Japan was quite a challenge. At the age of 78 and 82, walking a mile or two around a foreign city is pretty impressive. But, in the context of Japan, a mile or two is nothing. It hardly gets you anywhere. There is really nothing you can do to change that fact. Thus, taxis, and many of them, become necessary. When I travel, especially in a country I am relatively competent at navigating I have always felt ambivalent about taking taxis. It wasn't until this trip that I realized why or how strongly I really objected to them. Taxis waste money, gas, and zip you from one place to another, avoiding the in between. The in between, is often where you actually have a chance at learning something about the lifestyle of the people that live there. Temples and historical sites are impressive no doubt, and give you a glimpse of the past, but they shed very little light on the present. The in between forces you to deal with the county, how do people actually travel, what to they eat, what does the city look like in between the tourist traps? The in between is where you find the answers. It it is the unpredictable, the adventure, and often the frustration. However, with a 78 and 82 year old on board, their is really no choice. They did try, literally, as hard as they could, and I admire them for that.

Despite the difficulties, it was a wonderful trip, and I think everyone had a very good time. It was an ambitious itinerary starting far west in Hiroshima and Miyajima to Kyoto, Nara, and Himeji, and then north east where we split ways for Tokyo and Fuji Five Lakes. They were here for about two and a half weeks, and we traveled for about ten of those days. Everywhere we went the mountains and cities were covered in the pink and white flurries of blossoming cherry trees. It was an absolutely beautiful time to travel, and good company to travel with.

MIYAJIMA AND HIROSHIMA
The Itsukushima Shrine during low tide. Miyajima is said to be the Island of the Gods, historically only nobles and royalty could enter by boat through a giant floating torii. During high tide, this shrine as well appears to be floating atop the water. Unfortunantly the tide was not high enough the few days that we stayed on the island, but it was still a beautiful shrine.

Mountain Cherry blossoms. One of the most wonderful things about cherry blossoms here is that they bloom everywhere. The mountain varities dot the mountains with pink all over Japan.

The famous floating torii lit up at night. The island is covered in stone lanterns that give the land an eerie feel at night. The island is beautiful during the day, but the mood changes entirley at night when most of the tourists clear out and only the light from the stone lanterns and small Japanese inns illuminate the coast.

At the memorial to Sadako, a young girl who died of leukemia a few years after the bombing, students from all over the world fold tiny origami cranes in her memory. Before the girl died, she tried to fold 1000 in order to make a wish and save her own life. She didn't finish the cranes, but her story is well known, and hundereds of thousands of cranes decorate the peace park today. As a 7th grade student my world history class read a book on Sadako and learned to fold cranes which were sent to this memorial.

The overwhelming message in Hiroshima: PEACE.

The other symbol of Hiroshima, the A Bomb dome. Visiting Hiroshima is something I have wanted to do ever since I became interested in Japan. It was especially meaningful with Aunt Jo and Granny along. As witnesses of the war in the US, their reactions and comments were really interesting. Both of them were very impressed by the museum, and expressed that "It was something everyone should see."

KYOTO
Beautiful weeping cherry trees at Daigoji in Kyoto. These trees are hundreds of years old.

In front of the massive trees in Daigoji.

Geiko serving tea before the Miyako Odori later that night. The dance has been performed for decades every year for the month of April.

Hanami, watching the flowers, is as much a night time activity as it is during the day. Tables were set up all over Maruyama Park as people dined and drank sake under the trees.

Cherry blossoms framed the arches and doorways or traditional architecture beautifully. The open air hallways and clutterfree tatami rooms complement Japanese gardens perfectly.

At the Heian Shrine in Kyoto. Cherry trees and bushes with paper wishes deorate the grounds with pink and white.

Kodaiji Temple lit up at night.

HIMEJI
Himeji Castle. The castle to trump all castles, it is still relativley old (for a Japanese castle) and still very beautiful, especially with all the cherry trees in bloom.

The view from the top of the castle. I was really impressed with Granny, she made it all the way up the hill and then 6 flights of very narrow very steep steps in the castle.

FUJI FIVE LAKES
The view from our hostel in Fuji Five Lakes. Mt.Fuji was impossible to miss.

Soldeirs parade through nearby Kofu city to celebrate the fierce founder of the town.

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