The first half of the trip was spent in Tanabe. Tanabe may not be as dramatic or breathtaking as the other places we went, but I think everyone relaxed a lot more and had a lot of fun there. At the time, I couldn't wait to head off for our first destination. (I seemed to have it in my head that we were somehow going to be more organized when people had their own rooms to dump all their stuff, rather than all over my apartment.) Well the first train ride dispelled that idea. To everyone credit, they downsized their bags to what would be considered almost nothing by most people's standards, but the reality was that it was still too much. Unless you are planning on shelling out a lot of money, or joining a hosted tour, Japan is just not the place to bring much luggage. It is a mystery how Japanese people tote around tiny little travel bags and yet still look put together the next day, but somehow they do. By contrast the westerners you see here are exhausted, schlepping around bags that are far too big to carry up and down flights or stairs, and impossible to fit on the trains. For all of this stuff, we still look nothing short of scrubby next to the the highly primped Japanese. The truth is, (at least Americans) are so used to being able to drive their stuff around that it doesn't even occur to them that they might actually have to carry their luggage around outside of the air port. Nothing, not even repeated warnings, can prepare the traveler for the endless crowded stations, trains, and stairwells that they will face in Japan. At times I felt like a ring leader just trying to get everyone and their luggage through the stations. "We're getting off at the next stop." "Yes you will need your passes again." "Everybody go to the window, NOT the machine gates!" I can not count how many times I must have said all these things. It was inevitable to course, but none the less exhausting.
In addition to the trains, the amount of walking necessary to get around Japan was quite a challenge. At the age of 78 and 82, walking a mile or two around a foreign city is pretty impressive. But, in the context of Japan, a mile or two is nothing. It hardly gets you anywhere. There is really nothing you can do to change that fact. Thus, taxis, and many of them, become necessary. When I travel, especially in a country I am relatively competent at navigating I have always felt ambivalent about taking taxis. It wasn't until this trip that I realized why or how strongly I really objected to them. Taxis waste money, gas, and zip you from one place to another, avoiding the in between. The in between, is often where you actually have a chance at learning something about the lifestyle of the people that live there. Temples and historical sites are impressive no doubt, and give you a glimpse of the past, but they shed very little light on the present. The in between forces you to deal with the county, how do people actually travel, what to they eat, what does the city look like in between the tourist traps? The in between is where you find the answers. It it is the unpredictable, the adventure, and often the frustration. However, with a 78 and 82 year old on board, their is really no choice. They did try, literally, as hard as they could, and I admire them for that.
Despite the difficulties, it was a wonderful trip, and I think everyone had a very good time. It was an ambitious itinerary starting far west in Hiroshima and Miyajima to Kyoto, Nara, and Himeji, and then north east where we split ways for Tokyo and Fuji Five Lakes. They were here for about two and a half weeks, and we traveled for about ten of those days. Everywhere we went the mountains and cities were covered in the pink and white flurries of blossoming cherry trees. It was an absolutely beautiful time to travel, and good company to travel with.
KYOTO
HIMEJI
FUJI FIVE LAKES
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