Last weekend I left home at about 5AM for my first Seishun 18 Kippu adventure. My first destination was Komaki, in between Osaka and Tokyo, about an 8 hour ride on 7 or 8 trains depending on the connections. The time passed a lot faster than I would have thought, which leads me to believe I am getting a bit too accustomed to long waits-on planes, trains, and buses. I made it to Komaki and met up with Tina and a friend of hers in the afternoon for the Hounen Matsuri. Komaki's matsuri is well known throughout Japan, but perhaps most well known among the expat community here. The fame of the festival comes from the giant penis shrine that is paraded throughout the town, drawing thousands of foreigners and Japanese alike. Although the most attendees come for a good laugh, or to gawk at the oddity of parading around the shrine, there is a lot more to the festival. The hounen matsuri has continued for centuries as a fertility festival, for humans, and nature in general. 
While there is certainly a good time and a good laugh to be had of the ridiculousness of it, the festival represents (for me at least) one of the many ways that Japan's values differ from the US. Japan is generally seen as a fairly conservative country, and I for one would agree. Concerning the roles of women, racial issues, and a score of other social factors, Japan ranks more conservative than most other industrialized countries. Japan, however, is not necessarily conservative in the same ways as other industrialized (primarily Western countries). The Hounen Matsuri is one very good example of this. The festival celebrated penises of all varieties, as celebration and encouragement of life. While the Japanese, old and young, men and women, do get a very good laugh out of it, its not simply a joke. It's acceptable throughout generations, throughout the culture. Interpreted within a Western context however, the message is quite different. Displays such as this, along with a pervasive culture of homosexuality, prostitution, and polygamy found in pre-modern Japan are at least part of what shamed Japan into such rapid change upon encounter with the West. I guess these are the ramblings of a history major, but the point is, that festival has significant cultural value.... and of course guarantees a good time for all.
With another 8 hour trip ahead of me, a one day trip seemed like a bit too much, and I stayed overnight in Nagoya. The next day I broke the return journey into 3 trips, Nagoya to Inuyama, Inuyama to Kyoto, and Kyoto to Tanabe. My first stop in Inuyama was for about 4 hours. From the station it was an easy and pleasant walk to Inuyama (Dog Mountain) Castle. Although not the most visually impressive castle, it is the oldest still in its original state. The Japanese have knack for burning down their wood castles, and if that didn't do the trick, well then bombing during World War Two sure did. Inuyama, however, has managed to survive well over 400 years. The castle was actually really nice, and sparsely decorated, which gave it a slightly more authentic feel. Better no decorations, than ones that aren't very accurate. The surrounding town is beautiful, and a river (dubbed "the Rhine" after the one in Germany) is beautiful. There is a cluster of museums around the castle with objects from the castle and a lot of puppets. As I learned, Inuyama has a long history of puppet theater, particularly during their spring festival.
After a break in Inuyama I hopped back on the train for my second leg of the journey. I arrived at Kyoto in the early evening, just in time to catch the beginnings of Higashiyama Hanatoro. As one of my Japanese history professors used to say, "There is always a good excuse to go to Kyoto." I agree whole heartily. During Hanatoro (twice a year in March and November), a district of Kyoto is lit up, featuring pathways with clay lanterns, or bamboo ones in the river. In addition there are many Ikebana (Japanese flower arranging) exhibits, and night performances from Taiko drumming to maiko dances. I knew I could only stay for a short time, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity. The Ikebana arrangements were huge displays in the middle of the park, that were lit up at night. And the performances, though I could only stay for the dances, alone were worth the journey. Maiko and Geiko dances are extremely elegant with slow precise movements. Within an hour and a half I had to make my way back to the station for the long ride back, as it was I would already get in past 12AM on a Sunday night. Needless to say, it was a long Monday, but a wonderful weekend. 
1 comment:
AMAZING## that is all I can say. Not to mention that your stamina must be just incredible. I'm in awe.
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